Socks and the slipper baths

Here we are out on a London stroll today. I start at the Barbican after a trip up on the tube and a long wait at Mile End for a Hammersmith and City train. I choose my books quickly. I’m late arriving. I use the self check out and it tells me my audio cd has a problem. After a visit to the desk I’m checked out and away

I exit via a secret spiral stair well and come out into Silk street. Wentworth Street market is in full flow with office staff queuing for lunch at the many hot food stalls on offer. The market only has two regular stalls today. One selling jewellery and the other, cans of drink and toilet rolls. A guy begging for food sits with a sign round his neck and is largely ignored.

I’m surprised to find out that Priss Fotheringham was described as ” …the second best whore in the city”

WhiteCross street sign and unusual plaque

I turn into Old street and pass St Lukes which now seems to be occupied by the LSO. I see now where people take their hot food as the churchyard is packed with people eating.

St Luke’s Old Street

I see a sign for Ironmonger Row baths and I take a diversion. Toffee park adventure playground reminds me how the inner city boroughs seem to provide more for children and their families. And then I see the baths. The building is impressive

Ironmonger Row Baths

And there is a reminder on the side entrance that the original baths were provided by Finsbury council now swallowed up by Islington.

Side door to baths

I notice that the baths no longer seem to be Turkish and that activities for the over 55’s are not available at the moment. A refurbishment has not long taken place but I’m glad they façade has remained. I follow a side road which bypasses Old street roundabout and the chaotic building work and end up popping out on the City Road by The Stroke Association’s head quarters. We are on the boundary of Islington and Hackney here. We’ll save the story of ” Pop goes the Weasel” for another Ramble.

After a pit stop at the Golden Arches where they are playing rap music I don’t understand, I enter Micawber Street which reminds me how much of and Influence Dickens has been on London. I notice a boundary sign which precisely notes the edge of the Parish of St Leonard, Shoreditch. Amazing that such things survive.

Boundary Sign

My journey passes one of three Hoxton churches which stands out as being something old amongst the new. The new however isn’t. The Wenlock Estate covers much of this part of Hoxton and I’m curious to find how it got its name. Apparently, there is a near by Wenlock Basin on the canal which I’m informed came from a farm of that name which occupied this site. In fact a 16th Centuray Manor House is noted. A far cry from the estate today.

Shoreditch Park is reinventing itself and the sculpture I am told is a film spool which links with the near by Gainsborough Film studios. Many old black and white films were made here with the lady in a big hat who nodes seductively at the beginning. Alas no more. The studios are apartments and expensive ones. This area is “Up and Coming” The park is full of people with dogs.

A sign points the way for Hoxton Street Market and it’s here I’m heading. This high street seems tucked away and theres the feel of a film set about it. I discover the Hoxton Community Garden which I discover having passed our second Hoxton church. This I discover was the site of several demolished shops which the Hoxton Trust secured for a garden for all. It’s an oasis and I am very interested to see an allotment plot that is starting to grow veg. I see a sign for free coffee but its not for today. As if on cue, a lady walks past with a crocodile of children behind her. They are all singing. The same songs as they did last time I was here. At the same time. Like some ritual.

I pass the Pie and Mash show next to the Funeral parlour and I’m hoping there’s no connection. Poundland calls and I need socks. It’s the shabbiest Poundland I’ve been in with little stock. I wonder if it had been a Woolworths back in the day and make a note to research it up. It was. 1957

Our third Hoxton Church requires a slight detour but is worth a look. Very different to the others two. There are hot food stalls in the church yard and and a lady waits outside with her Yoga mat. A busy school is at play next door.

St John the Baptist Hoxton

And then its time to get going. Near by is Hoxton station on the London Overground. A recent invention. The track ran from Dalston Junction to Broad street with a station at near by Hagerstown. All manor of unusual services ran up and down the line until the mid 80’s when the spur into Broad street closed. I remember seeing the track bed as a scrap yard. But, like the Phoenix it has risen and connected Highbury and Isling ton with the old East London line to create and frequent service both North and South of the Thames. It was all part of the gentrification of the area and probably wouldn’t have happened had the original Hoxton community been allowed to stay. As I enter Hoxton station I’m accosted by a Charity Mugger. “

You look a friendly person” she says.

“I was till I met you” I wanted to say, but didn’t.

“I’ll miss my train” I gestured, while looking at the back of the Geoffrey Museum and seeing how they’ve not only changed the name, but the look of the building too.

And I very nearly did miss it

St Ann’s Hoxton

Holy Trinity Hoxton